Pecorino

Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Etymology and Pronunciation
- History and Origin
- Wine-Making Process
4.1 Terroir & Regional Influences
4.2 Harvesting & Fermentation
4.3 Maceration
4.4 Ageing, Blending and Bottling - Key Ingredients
- Varieties
- Notable Brands
- Sensory Profile
- Serving Recommendations
- Food Pairings
- Awards and Recognition
- Health and Consumption
- Key Compounds
- References and Links
1. Introduction
Pecorino is a white wine grape native to central-eastern Italy, cultivated predominantly in the regions of Marche and Abruzzo. Known for its naturally low yields, early ripening and high acidity, it produces wines characterised by minerality, aromatic brightness, and textural finesse. Although long present in the Italian viticultural landscape, it fell into obscurity during the 20th century, overshadowed by more productive varieties. However, it has undergone a remarkable resurgence since the 1980s, owing largely to regional producers who recognised its potential.
The varietal has gained popularity for its vibrant palate, aromatic intensity, and adaptability to diverse winemaking styles. Its ability to retain freshness even in warmer climates has made it increasingly attractive to growers beyond its native territory, including in Australia. Pecorino wines typically offer a distinctive sensory experience, combining citrus, white flowers, and herbal elements with a backbone of brisk acidity and a slightly saline finish. Its natural attributes have contributed to its growing prominence in DOC and DOCG classifications, elevating it to a position of renewed prestige in contemporary winemaking.
2. Etymology and Pronunciation
The name Pecorino (pronounced /pe-ko-REE-no/ in Italian) is derived from pecora, the Italian word for “sheep.” This connection is thought to reflect the historical presence of sheep in the mountainous areas where the grape was traditionally grown. According to local accounts, sheep would graze in the vineyards and were known to nibble the ripe berries. Despite sharing its name with the famous Italian sheep’s milk cheese, there is no genetic or agricultural relationship between the two products.
The association with pastoral settings and traditional mountain viticulture underlines Pecorino’s rustic origins. In linguistic terms, the suffix “-ino” in Italian often indicates diminutiveness or endearment, perhaps suggesting the grape’s small berry size or valued status among local growers. Though the grape’s etymology is firmly rooted in the Italian vernacular, its resurgence in international markets has led to a broader familiarity with the term, particularly in sommelier and oenophile circles.
3. History and Origin
The Pecorino grape is considered one of the oldest indigenous white varieties of central Italy. Its origins are deeply tied to the hilly inland regions of Marche, with a particularly strong historical presence in the province of Ascoli Piceno. Ampelographic records trace its cultivation back several centuries, and one of the earliest mentions appears in a 1526 document from Norcia, which prescribed fines for damaging vineyards of “vigne de pecurino.” This reference establishes its longstanding value in local viticulture.
During the 19th and early 20th centuries, Pecorino was occasionally described in agronomic texts. In 1903, the agronomist Salvatore Mondini noted its similarity to Riesling in certain stylistic aspects. Nonetheless, its cultivation remained limited due to several disadvantages: its low yields, sensitivity to vineyard management practices, and the post-phylloxera preference for more commercially viable varieties. As industrial agriculture expanded, Pecorino’s presence in Italian vineyards declined significantly, and the grape was at one point believed to be on the verge of extinction.
The modern revival of Pecorino began in earnest in the 1980s when pioneering producer Guido Cocci Grifoni undertook experimental plantings in the Offida region of southern Marche. These efforts aimed to recover and re-establish indigenous grape varieties that had been marginalised. In neighbouring Abruzzo, the varietal gained significant traction in 1997 when winemaker Luigi Cataldi Madonna produced a commercially labelled Pecorino wine—an act that substantially influenced its public and market recognition.
By the early 21st century, Pecorino had seen a notable increase in both vineyard surface and production volume. In Abruzzo alone, plantings have exceeded 1,260 hectares, with over 18 million bottles produced annually. The grape now forms the cornerstone of several DOC and DOCG designations, most notably the Offida DOCG in Marche, where it must constitute a minimum of 85% of the wine. Its reemergence stands as a testament to the potential of lesser-known indigenous grapes and the value of preserving local vinous heritage.
4. Wine-Making Process
4.1 Terroir & Regional Influences
Pecorino thrives in hilly inland regions with calcareous, clay-limestone soils. The best vineyards are often situated at higher elevations, where cooler night temperatures help preserve acidity and enhance aromatic expression. In Marche, particularly around Ascoli Piceno, steep vineyards benefit from both Adriatic breezes and significant diurnal temperature shifts, which foster elegance and precision in the finished wines.
In Abruzzo, Pecorino vines are planted in warmer inland valleys and foothills, especially in Chieti and Teramo provinces. Here, slightly riper expressions of the grape are common, offering more tropical fruit notes while maintaining a balanced structure. The variety’s natural adaptability has enabled it to succeed in these differing microclimates, making terroir an essential factor in defining regional styles.
4.2 Harvesting & Fermentation
Pecorino is an early-ripening variety, often harvested in late August or early September. Its naturally low yields, averaging between 6 to 8 tonnes per hectare, are a key factor in its aromatic intensity and concentrated flavour. Grapes are typically hand-harvested to ensure minimal oxidation and to preserve varietal purity.
Fermentation is conducted predominantly in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures (around 14–16°C) to retain fresh aromas and vibrant acidity. Some winemakers employ ambient yeasts, while others use selected strains to ensure consistency and expression of terroir. Malolactic fermentation is generally avoided to preserve the grape’s naturally high acid profile.
4.3 Maceration
Maceration times for Pecorino are brief and carefully managed. In most cases, the grape undergoes gentle pressing immediately after destemming, with minimal skin contact. This technique ensures clarity and freshness, preventing excessive phenolic extraction. However, some artisanal producers experiment with short periods of skin contact (up to 24 hours) to impart additional texture, mouthfeel, and complexity, particularly in hillside or old-vine selections.
4.4 Ageing, Blending and Bottling
Ageing regimes for Pecorino vary depending on the producer and intended style. The majority of wines are aged in stainless steel for several months on fine lees, contributing a creamy texture without overt oak influence. Premium bottlings may see ageing in large neutral oak casks or concrete eggs, which enhance complexity while preserving varietal character.
Blending is typically limited, especially in appellations where Pecorino is mandated to comprise 85–100% of the final wine. Nonetheless, in some DOCs it may be blended with Trebbiano, Verdicchio, or Malvasia to produce broader styles. Wines are bottled after filtration and stabilisation, often within 6 to 12 months of harvest, to ensure freshness and aromatic precision.
5. Key Ingredients
The primary ingredient in Pecorino wine is the Pecorino grape itself, notable for its thick skins, small berries, and high levels of natural acidity. This varietal characteristic contributes to both the structure and aromatic clarity of the finished product. The other “ingredients” are less tangible but no less important:
- Soil and terroir, particularly calcareous and marly compositions.
- Cool-climate influence, promoting acid retention and aromatics.
- Yeast strains (ambient or inoculated), which shape fermentation aromas.
- Fermentation vessels, such as stainless steel or neutral wood, influencing textural outcome.
- Lees contact, enhancing roundness and palate weight.
Collectively, these inputs guide the final expression of Pecorino, making viticultural and oenological decisions central to wine quality.
6. Varieties
Although Pecorino is a single grape variety, the wines it produces vary considerably based on region, vineyard age, vinification methods, and blending practices. These variations give rise to both well-known and lesser-known styles:
- Varietal Pecorino (100%): Wines made exclusively from Pecorino are common in DOCG and DOC designations such as Offida and Terre di Chieti. These typically showcase the clearest expression of the grape’s character, marked by freshness, minerality and subtle florality.
- Blended Pecorino Wines: In some appellations, the grape is blended with Trebbiano, Passerina, or Verdicchio. These blends can soften the acidity and create more approachable profiles, often at lower price points.
- Old-Vine Selections: Wines from vineyards with 30–50-year-old vines are noted for their greater complexity, lower yields, and longer ageing potential. These are typically made with minimal intervention and sometimes with extended lees contact.
- Skin-Contact and “Orange” Styles: A few experimental producers allow extended maceration to craft structured, tannic white wines. These are rare and generally outside mainstream DOC regulation.
- Sparkling and Late-Harvest Wines: While uncommon, some wineries produce sparkling Pecorino (Metodo Classico or Charmat) and passito versions for niche markets. These highlight the grape’s high acid and sugar retention even at full ripeness.
- International Interpretations: New World plantings, particularly in Australia, have produced modern, crisp, fruit-forward wines that offer a unique take on Pecorino’s traditional expression.
7. Notable Brands
A diverse group of producers, both Italian and international, have brought Pecorino to global attention. Among the most influential and reputable brands are:
- Cocci Grifoni (Marche) – Pioneers of Pecorino’s modern revival in Offida.
- Luigi Cataldi Madonna (Abruzzo) – The first to commercially label Pecorino in 1997.
- Umani Ronchi (Marche) – Renowned for consistent quality and regional typicity.
- Torre dei Beati (Abruzzo) – Focuses on organic and terroir-driven wines.
- Cantina Offida (Marche) – Specialises in DOCG-level Pecorino with depth and minerality.
- Colonnara (Marche) – Cooperative model producing value-driven and award-winning examples.
- La Valentina (Abruzzo) – Crafts premium Pecorino with modern techniques.
- Cascina Pepe (Marche) – Small-scale artisanal producer focusing on old-vine fruit.
- Barone Cornacchia (Abruzzo) – Historical estate known for quality consistency.
- Primo Estate (South Australia) – Australian interpretation showcasing New World freshness.
- Lake Breeze (Langhorne Creek, Australia) – An award-winning New World expression.
- Velenosi Vini (Marche) – Known for vibrant, aromatic Pecorino wines.
Each of these producers brings unique site expression and winemaking philosophy, contributing to the global reputation of Pecorino.
8. Sensory Profile
Pecorino wines are celebrated for their vibrant aromatic character and structural finesse. The grape’s natural high acidity and aromatic potential make for a compelling sensory profile across styles.
Aroma: Dominant aromas often include white peach, pear, citrus blossom, almond, and subtle herbal or saline notes. Higher-elevation wines may express flinty minerality and lemon zest, while warmer sites deliver more tropical nuances like pineapple or guava.
Palate: On the palate, Pecorino offers crisp acidity, medium to full body, and a smooth, sometimes waxy texture. Stone fruits, citrus, green apple, and almond flavours dominate. A signature hint of bitterness or pithy edge often provides structural complexity.
Finish: The finish tends to be long and dry, with lingering minerality and a saline tang. Older or oak-aged examples may develop hazelnut, chamomile, or honeyed layers, enriching the wine’s evolution.
The interplay of freshness, aromatic intensity, and phenolic grip distinguishes Pecorino from other Italian whites.
9. Serving Recommendations
Pecorino is best served at a temperature of 8–10 °C to highlight its crisp acidity and aromatic layers. Slightly warmer service (10–12 °C) is suitable for aged or barrel-aged expressions to release nuanced aromas.
The ideal glassware is a tulip-shaped white wine glass, which helps concentrate aromas while allowing sufficient aeration. Decanting is rarely necessary for young wines but may benefit older vintages or complex styles.
When serving, avoid over-chilling, which can mute aromatics and texture. Pour in moderate volumes to maintain freshness across the course of the meal.
10. Food Pairings
Pecorino’s lively acidity, mineral backbone, and citrus–almond flavour profile make it a remarkably versatile food wine.
Seafood: Ideal with grilled white fish, seared scallops, langoustines, and shellfish-based pastas. Lemon-dressed calamari, vongole with parsley, or a light fish carpaccio are classic pairings.
Regional Italian Dishes: Pairs beautifully with Marche or Abruzzo cuisine, such as brodetto di pesce (fish stew), fried anchovies, or olive all’ascolana (stuffed olives).
Vegetables and Herbs: Complements dishes featuring asparagus, fennel, zucchini, and artichokes—often difficult to pair with wines. Herbaceous accents in Pecorino match well with thyme, sage, and basil.
White Meats: Roast chicken with lemon and rosemary, pork loin with apple compote, or turkey breast in almond sauce make for satisfying pairings.
Cheese: Young Pecorino pairs best with fresh cheeses like ricotta, mozzarella, and burrata. Aged examples work well with semi-firm sheep’s milk cheese—ironically, including Pecorino cheese itself.
Asian Cuisine: Its acidity and aromatics can complement lightly spiced Thai or Vietnamese dishes, especially those featuring lemongrass or lime.
Pecorino’s structure and balance allow it to perform equally well as an aperitif or through multiple courses, with a strong affinity for Mediterranean and coastal fare.
11. Awards and Recognition
Pecorino has received increasing recognition on the international wine stage, particularly over the last two decades. Notable accolades include:
- Cocci Grifoni’s Offida Pecorino DOCG – Multiple Tre Bicchieri awards from Gambero Rosso.
- Lake Breeze Pecorino (Australia) – Scored 93 points in the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion.
- Cataldi Madonna’s Pecorino – Regularly cited in Italian wine guides as benchmark quality.
- Umani Ronchi – Praised for consistent performance in regional competitions.
- Velenosi – Awarded for value-driven Pecorino at international tastings.
Other award-winning producers include Colonnara, Torre dei Beati, La Valentina, Velenosi, Barone Cornacchia, and Cascina Pepe. Recognition of Pecorino’s quality has led to its inclusion in prestigious wine lists and global distribution.
12. Health and Consumption
Pecorino wines contain a variety of bioactive compounds contributing to both flavour and physiological effects. As a white wine, it has lower levels of tannins and polyphenols than reds but retains notable health-relevant constituents.
Alcohol: With alcohol levels typically ranging from 12.5% to 14%, Pecorino can have a warming effect while maintaining freshness. Ethanol metabolism engages hepatic enzymes like alcohol dehydrogenase and aldehyde dehydrogenase.
Acids: High concentrations of tartaric and malic acids contribute to gastric stimulation and enhanced digestion. Succinic acid adds a savoury, umami character.
Phenolic Content: Flavonoids and hydroxycinnamic acids—though less prevalent than in reds—may play antioxidant and anti-inflammatory roles. Tyrosol, derived from fermentation, is linked to cardiovascular benefits.
Minerals: The terroir-driven minerality of Pecorino reflects vineyard soil content, with elements like potassium, calcium, and magnesium enhancing both taste and nutritional profile.
Aromatic Precursors: Compounds like terpenes and esters affect mood and sensory perception through olfactory stimulation. The presence of benzaldehyde derivatives may add subtle almond notes with physiological significance.
While no single grape variety ensures health benefits, Pecorino contributes meaningfully to the biochemical complexity of moderate wine consumption within balanced dietary patterns.
13. Key Compounds
Several classes of compounds define Pecorino’s sensory profile and chemical identity:
- Terpenes (e.g., linalool, geraniol): Impart floral and citrus aromas.
- Esters (e.g., ethyl hexanoate, isoamyl acetate): Responsible for fruity notes like pear and banana.
- Thiols: Trace compounds enhancing grapefruit, passionfruit, or green elements.
- Flavonols (e.g., quercetin, kaempferol): Provide oxidative stability and subtle bitterness.
- Organic Acids: Tartaric, malic, and succinic acids determine freshness, structure, and stability.
- Aldehydes and C6 alcohols: Convey green apple, fresh-cut grass, or almond nuances.
- Mineral Ions: Soil-derived elements contributing to perceived salinity or flintiness.
These components collectively shape Pecorino’s identity, lending it a multi-layered complexity prized by both producers and consumers.
14. References and Links
- Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. Wine Grapes: A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties. Allen Lane, 2012.
- “Pecorino (grape).” Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pecorino_(grape)
- “Pecorino: The Hero of Marche.” CellarTours. https://www.cellartours.com/blog/italy/the-hero-of-marche-pecorino
- “Pecorino Wine Guide.” The Italian On Tour. https://theitalianontour.com/a-quick-guide-to-pecorino-wine
- Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) bulletins on Pecorino.
- Producer websites: Cocci Grifoni, Cataldi Madonna, Lake Breeze, Primo Estate, Umani Ronchi.