Prosecco: Is the Italian Sparkler Usurping the French Wine’s Crown?

The Battle of the Bubbles

In the grand amphitheatre of sparkling wines, a new gladiator has entered the arena. Once the undisputed sovereign, Champagne now finds itself jostling for attention beside a sprightly rival: Prosecco. Over the past decade, a subtle yet significant shift has unfolded in wine bars, supermarkets, and wedding receptions across the globe. Bottles once reserved solely for grand occasions are being nudged aside by their lively Italian cousin, whose sales figures have climbed with unabashed enthusiasm.

I explore the reasons behind Prosecco’s meteoric rise, the challenges Champagne faces in holding its historic dominion, and what these effervescent trends reveal about modern drinkers. Along the way, a few personal reflections on fizz-induced faux pas will be shared, because after all, sparkling wine is as much about stories as it is about sophistication.

A Brief History of the Bubbles

Champagne's story is nothing short of illustrious. Born in the verdant vineyards of northeastern France, this sparkling icon is enshrined in tradition. Dom Pérignon, a name now synonymous with opulence, is often romantically credited with inventing Champagne in the late 17th century, though the reality is, as ever, a little more nuanced.

Prosecco, meanwhile, traces its roots to the modest village of the same name near Trieste in northeastern Italy. Historically perceived as a rustic alternative to Champagne, Prosecco remained relatively obscure beyond Italian borders until the late 20th century. Only in recent years has it gleefully bubbled over onto the international scene.

An impressive infographic from Wine Intelligence (2023) reveals that Prosecco's global sales rose by over 36% between 2015 and 2022, whilst Champagne experienced a modest decline of around 3% in the same period. Clearly, the tables or should one say, glasses, are turning.

Prosecco’s Path to Popularity: Lightness, Price, and Lifestyle

There is no denying it: Prosecco has mastered the art of approachability. Unlike Champagne, which often demands a premium, Prosecco is available at a price point that invites indulgence without buyer’s remorse. According to NielsenIQ, the average bottle of Prosecco costs around $15 to $19, while a typical bottle of entry-level Champagne hovers at roughly $50 and above or more.

Price alone does not account for the seismic shift. Prosecco is lighter in both alcohol and palate, usually sitting at around 11% ABV, compared to Champagne’s heavier 12–13%. This relative lightness aligns perfectly with contemporary drinking habits, where moderation, wellness, and casual enjoyment are increasingly prized.

Last summer, while picnicking with friends on the NSW South Coast, the decision between a $60 Champagne and a cheerful $18 Prosecco was made in seconds. Sunlight, frisbees, and laughter called for something that could be drunk with abandon, not reverence. The cork popped, and so did our mood.

Cultural Cachet: How Italy Made Bubbles Cool

Prosecco's cultural ascendancy can also be credited to Italy’s worldwide reputation for effortless style. With the rise of the 'Aperitivo' hour, chic bars from Milan to Manchester began featuring spritzes and sparkling cocktails where Prosecco became the indispensable base.

Social media, with its relentless thirst for picturesque lifestyles, helped amplify Prosecco’s appeal. Instagram hashtags like #ProseccoTime and #FizzFriday now boast millions of posts. Champagne, still wedded to images of tuxedos and ballgowns, found itself less equipped for this more casual, selfie-driven era.

As noted by Richard Bampfield MW, a respected Master of Wine, "Prosecco offers a relaxed kind of luxury. It's celebratory but not intimidating. That's crucial for today's consumers."

Quality Revolution: From Forgettable to Formidable

The quality of Prosecco has not merely kept pace with its popularity; it has dramatically improved. Innovations in viticulture and the DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) system in regions such as Conegliano-Valdobbiadene have elevated the product from simple to sublime.

In 2020, the addition of a 'Prosecco Rosé DOC' designation opened further doors. Sales of Prosecco Rosé surged by 60% within a year of its approval, according to WineGB statistics. Aesthetically alluring and flavourfully versatile, the pink-hued sparkler added yet another feather to Prosecco’s already-feathered cap.

Champagne’s Challenges: Cost, Climate, and Competition

Champagne's position is not merely threatened by external challengers; internal struggles are equally to blame. Climate change has wreaked havoc on French vineyards, leading to lower yields and higher production costs. Furthermore, the exclusivity that once distinguished Champagne now appears, to some, as exclusionary.

Data insight: Research from Comité Champagne reported a 20% fall in Champagne shipments to the UK in 2022, marking a worrying trend for the industry.

In contrast, Prosecco producers have managed to ramp up production while preserving affordability, thanks in part to the Charmat method, where secondary fermentation occurs in large tanks rather than individual bottles.

The Psychological Shift: Celebration vs. Everyday Joy

Historically, Champagne symbolised celebration: christenings, New Year’s Eve, grand romantic gestures. Prosecco, on the other hand, invites casual, everyday enjoyment. Where Champagne feels like a tuxedo, Prosecco wears a summer dress.

As consumer habits shift towards experiences over materialism, accessible pleasures become more valued. A bottle that can be uncorked without ceremony fits neatly into this new world.

During lockdown, my local shop offered a "3 for $60" Prosecco deal. Many Fridays were spent on the balcony, Prosecco in hand, celebrating surviving another week of virtual meetings. Champagne would have felt absurdly decadent; Prosecco felt just right.

Could Champagne Fight Back?

While Prosecco enjoys its moment, it would be foolish to count Champagne out entirely. Premiumisation strategies are underway, with houses like Ruinart and Krug promoting more sustainable practices, limited editions, and direct-to-consumer experiences.

Furthermore, Champagne will always possess a mystique that Prosecco may find hard to replicate fully. In the words of wine critic Jancis Robinson, "When Champagne is good, it is transcendent. Prosecco, however delightful, rarely aspires to those dizzying heights."

A Crown Shared Rather Than Seized?

It seems increasingly likely that Prosecco’s ascent does not spell doom for Champagne but rather a recalibration of sparkling wine's landscape. In this sparkling new order, Champagne retains its throne for grandiose occasions, whilst Prosecco bubbles away merrily as the people's prince.

In the end, whether one reaches for a bottle of Champagne or Prosecco, the real triumph is that sparkling wine has woven itself more intricately into the fabric of everyday joy. And that, surely, is something worth toasting.

Cheers, or should we say, Salute!

See the full CellarsMarket Prosecco range

See the full CellarsMarket Champagne range

References:

• Wine Intelligence, Global Wine Reports 2023
• Comité Champagne, Annual Export Figures 2022
• NielsenIQ, UK Beverage Report 2023
• Richard Bampfield MW, Interview with The Drinks Business, 2023
• Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine, 5th ed., 2022
• WineGB, Prosecco Rosé Market Trends Report 2022

  ---

  Ricardo Pavoncello is an experienced article writer and recognised wine, beer, and spirits expert. With a deep understanding of the complexities of alcoholic beverages, Ricardo has spent years exploring and writing about the latest trends, industry developments, and the art of tasting. His work is well-regarded for its insightful analysis, expert recommendations, and ability to make complex topics accessible to enthusiasts and professionals. Whether delving into the history of a particular spirit or reviewing the latest craft beer, Ricardo brings passion and expertise to every article he writes.